The sapphire is not as tall as the Black Bay, but slightly domed underlines the vintage identity and sits inside a broad radial brushed bezel insert. The Seiko Prospex attacks with its sword-like golden hands. This is where the main similarity comes into play, and gold is the weapon of choice. Bandages for the Japanese fighter, please! Comfortable? Yes, in spades, but the silky perfection of the Tudor bracelet smashes it here. Soft and supple, with the nice detail of a brushed steel keeper with polished bevels, though for my 17.5cm wrist, very long due to the theoretic possible use on a wetsuit. The silicon strap on the Seiko contender is an interesting take on retro inspiration, having a pebbled back and a nice 3-part pattern on the top. The clasp is equally crisp in closure, with a useful 3-point micro adjustment, and the taper, from 20mm to 18, is ’60s perfect. The controversial faux-rivet bracelet of the Tudor Black Bay 58Įvery tiny corner is discreetly rounded off, leaving it soft on the wrist. They liven up the too-perfect links, the brushed texture being just-so, leaving the surface silken. The links fit with the absolute minimum of tolerances, and personally I love the vintage tool contrast that the polished, but unnecessary, outer rivet-plates bring. This is where the Rolex family connection shines through, as the detail work is flawless. The SPB147J comes on a soft silicon rubber, whereas the BB58 sits on the much debated rivet-look bracelet. Well, let’s admit that it’s not really a fair fight when it comes to the strapology, with one being soft and the other all armoured up. The case profile of the Seiko Prospex SPB147 The strap and bracelet belt it out Ultimate finish and ergonomics go to the Fifty-Eight, but Seiko wins the prize for a more interesting and complex case design as the bell rings for Round 2. The Seiko has the classic square lug opening of its 1965 inspiration, the 62MAS, lending it an authoritative tool presence, with detailed brushed tops and no knifelike lug ends. The Seiko Prospex SPB147Ī narrow centre band of brushed steel, with an acutely angled polished bevel top and bottom, slims the case size right down, hides scuffs and plays with the light. But the Seiko case sides are superbly finished, granting it instant forgiveness. The caseback is, however, thick enough to create that floating lug sensation unless you strap it down properly, which for me is too tight. Is it chubby? Guilty as charged at a more substantial 13.2 mm thickness, but comfortable with a lug to lug of 47.6mm and the lugs being downturned by a distinct degree. The Seiko SPB147J comes into the ring swinging. The minutely brushed top and pointed lugs beautifully underline the Rolex family quality, save for one detail: the ends of the lugs are sharply defined a bit too literally, and would be better with a slight rounding or bevel. The finish is superb, but the expanse of polished sides is very susceptible to hairlines and scratches and not overly exciting. The sides are slab-straight with a slim bevel on top. The result is a smooth fit to the wrist, no matter which strap or bracelet. The comfort prize is won by the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, by simple virtue of the slim 11.9mm height combined with the best feature of any comfortable watch - an unobtrusive and thin caseback with downturned lugs. Still on the chubby side height-wise, but at a third of the price of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, is the SPB147J the gilt champ? The fighters enter the arena …
This changed with the recent release of the 40.5mm SPB143-147 and SPB149 Vintage Diver Re-creation trio. Ergonomically superb they may be, but with the different tastes of the Asian and US markets (in HK the BB58 is being marketed as a ladies’ watch), still predominantly large chunks of 42-44mm steel. Yes, we can - from Seiko, well known for their brilliant vintage reissues, but also for being large. But can we find alternatives in the same perfect 38-40mm size from another big box brand? Personally, I love vintage tool watches, and especially the quiet bling that a warm touch of gold brings to the party. In fact, care of the recent navy blue update, it’s currently as viral as the AD waiting lists are long. If a watch has become synonymous with the One Watch Collection, a quintessential vintage diver, or the perfect Sub reissue Rolex never released, it’s the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Seiko Prospex SPB147J – the battle of gilty pleasures Thor Svaboe I/trending 24586 IN DEPTH: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Vs.
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